Free walking tours in Covarrubias and what to see

Must-sees

Covarrubias is a small town by the river Arlanza, with half-timbered houses, arcades and eaves overhanging cobbled streets. The tower of Fernán González, a defensive tower of early medieval origin, is its best-known image. Next to it is the Gothic collegiate church of San Cosme y San Damián, where Count Fernán González and his wife rest, which holds a historic organ and a small museum.

In the collegiate church’s cloister lies Kristina of Norway, a princess who married a Castilian prince in the 13th century. In her memory a chapel dedicated to Saint Olav was built on the outskirts. Stroll too round Plaza de Doña Urraca, cross the bridge over the Arlanza and climb to a viewpoint to see the village rooftops against the surrounding fields.

Free tours and guided visits

In such a small village there are no regular free walking tours. The most practical option is the guided visit to the collegiate church and the tower, organised in the village itself, and to ask at the tourist office about guided walks of the old town at weekends and on public holidays. They will tell you the story of the Counts of Castile.

Covarrubias is a good base for exploring the Arlanza area. Very close by is the monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos, with its Romanesque cloister and the monks’ Gregorian chant, and the La Yecla gorge, walked along a boardwalk. You can also visit the ruins of the monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza, the Visigothic chapel of Quintanilla de las Viñas and the ducal town of Lerma.

How long to spend

The village can be seen in half a day, with time for the collegiate church, the tower and an unhurried lunch. It is the surrounding area that calls for more days. With two days you can spend one on Covarrubias and San Pedro de Arlanza and the other on Santo Domingo de Silos and La Yecla, stopping at Lerma on the way back.

Where to stay

The nicest option is to sleep in the village itself, in the old town or by the Arlanza. The choice is small: a few small hotels and several rural cottages, so book well ahead in summer and on long weekends. At night the atmosphere is very peaceful. If you cannot find a room, Lerma or Santo Domingo de Silos are close and work just as well as a base.