Free walking tours in Lerma and what to see

Must-sees

Lerma is a very clear example of a 17th-century ducal town. The Duke of Lerma, favourite of Philip III, turned it into a small court with a palace, convents and churches. The Herrerian-style Ducal Palace, now a parador, presides over a Plaza Mayor that is huge for the size of the town, designed for festivities and spectacles.

The collegiate church of San Pedro holds the tomb of Archbishop Cristóbal de Rojas, with a bronze praying figure. A passageway once led from the palace to the collegiate church and several convents. It is worth looking out from the Arcos viewpoint, with views over the Arlanza plain, and walking under the Arco de la Cárcel, the old town gate.

Free tours and guided visits

In Lerma the tourist office runs guided tours of the ducal town, including the Plaza Mayor, the outside of the palace, the collegiate church and the duke’s passageway. Free walking tours in the strict sense are rare, so the guided tour is the usual way to see it with explanations.

Lerma is a good base for excursions in the Arlanza valley. Covarrubias, with its medieval centre and collegiate church, is very close, as is the monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos, known for its Romanesque cloister and the monks’ Gregorian chant. Near Silos is the La Yecla gorge, with a boardwalk through the ravine. Burgos is about forty kilometres away.

How long to spend

Lerma is easily seen in half a day. Allow about two hours for the Plaza Mayor, the palace and the collegiate church, and another hour for the viewpoint and the old-town streets. If you stay a full day, you can go to Covarrubias in the afternoon. With two days, add Santo Domingo de Silos and the La Yecla gorge, which combine well in one day.

Where to stay

Ideally, sleep by the Plaza Mayor or in the streets running down to the Arco de la Cárcel. The parador in the Ducal Palace is the most striking option, but there are also guesthouses and rural cottages in the old town. Sleeping here lets you see the square empty at night and set off early for Covarrubias or Silos. The town is quiet and can be explored entirely on foot.